Sometimes doing a end of year clear out of the bookcases
brings a surprise. That's what happened to me. I found a small paperback by
Peter Reinhart mixed in with the mysteries. In it I found what I think is the perfect March bread for gathering round our Bread Baking Babes kitchen table. Since I'm Kitchen of the Month, I'm inviting you, dear reader, to bake it too.
Peter Reinhart has been encouraging bread baking for a long
time, especially slow food bread baking where the dough is given plenty of time
to develop its flavor. When Struan bread was available commercially at the
market in the 90s, I often bought it for making sandwiches. I loved the complex
flavors and the substantial body of the bread, still rare at a time when most
sandwich bread was soft and squishy.
I have a copy of a book he wrote in 1994
called Sacramental Magic in a Small-Town Cafe - Recipes and Stories
from Brother Juniper's Cafe'. In it he gives the recipe for his (at the
time) all time favorite bread - Cinnamon Raisin Struan, which is a variation of
Struan bread.
This is supposed to be a complex bread, consisting of lots
of grains and ingredients. Brother Peter says, "Struan, incidentally,
aside from being the name of a Scottish clan, also means "the convergence
of two or more streams" which he feels is quite appropriate considering
all the different convergences of ingredients. You will need to cook some brown
rice ahead of time and allow it to cool to room temperature and be prepared to
knead longer than usual. You might have to make a trip to the store for
polenta, wheat bran and/or buttermilk, but most of the ingredients are probably
already in your pantry.
This recipe makes a lot of bread - three 1 1/2 pound loaves.
As long as you keep the ingredients in proportion, you can reduce the amounts
of ingredients to make less.
In keeping with my no-dairy regime, I substituted a combination of soy milk and plain yogurt (which doesn't seem to bother me, probably because of being fermented) for the buttermilk. I also forgot all about doing oil and cinnamon sugar on the top of the loaf (probably because I was baking these well after dinner time and my brain turns off, mostly, after about 7 pm). I also divided the recipe in half and still made two smaller loaves. This bread is fragrant with the cinnamon...a full tablespoon per loaf!...and has a nice sturdy crumb and thin but delicious crust. One loaf received only cinnamon...I forgot all about the sugar...and the other loaf received some melted butter and brown sugar along with the cinnamon. Both were delicious in different ways.
Come on, become a Buddy! Bake this bread and then email me at plachman at sonic dot net, along with a photo of your bread and a short description of your baking experience. Get it to me by March 29th to be included in the round-up. Don't be surprised if this bread is gone in a flash. While it is baking in the oven the kitchen begins to smell like those cinnamon rolls at the mall and soon everyone wants a taste. Just let it cool a bit or you might get a burnt tongue from the hot sugar!
Be sure to visit the blogs of the other Bread Baking Babes, too, to see what they have done with the recipe. I'll do a post tomorrow with links if you don't have them already.
Cinnamon Raisin Struan Bread
makes three 1 1/2 pound loaves
from Sacramental Magic in a Small-Town Cafe by
Br Peter Reinhart
7 cups high-gluten bread flour
1/2 cup uncooked polenta (coarse ground cornmeal)
1/2 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup wheat bran
4 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons active dry yeast activated in 4 tablespoons
lukewarm water
(alternately, use 2 tablespoons plus one teaspoon instant
yeast, mixed with the dry ingredients)
1/2 cup cooked brown rice
1/4 cup honey
3/4 cup buttermilk
About 1 1/2 cups water (be prepared to add more if
needed)
3 cups raisins
1/2 cup cinnamon sugar (1 part cinnamon to 2 parts
granulated sugar)
4 tablespoons melted butter, margarine, or vegetable oil
In a large bowl, combine all the dry ingredients, including
the salt and yeast (unless you are using active dry yeast, which should be
activated in warm water and added with the wet ingredients.)
Add the cooked rice, honey, and buttermilk and mix together.
Then add 1 cup of water, reserving the rest to add as needed. With your hands,
squeeze the ingredient together until they make a ball. Sprinkle some flour on
the counter and turn the ball out of the bowl and begin kneading. Add small
quantities of water as needed.
Because Struan has so many whole grains, it takes longer to
knead than most breads. Allow at least 15 minutes, but be prepared to knead for
20. The dough will change before your eyes, lightening in color, becoming
gradually more elastic and evenly grained. The finished dough should be tacky,
not sticky, lightly golden, stretchy and elastic, rather than porridge-like.
When you push the heels of your hands into the dough it should give way but not
tear. If it flakes or crumbles, add a little more water.
When the dough seems ready, add the raisins and knead for 2
more minutes, until the raisins are evenly distributed. (I kneaded my raisins in after the first rise.)
Wash out the mixing bowl and dry it thoroughly. Put in the
dough and cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap, or place the bowl inside a
plastic bag. Allow the dough to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, until it
has roughly doubled in size. (Mine took longer...closer to two hours. Once I kneaded in the raisins, I put it in the fridge overnight for more flavor.)
Cut the dough into 3 equal pieces (or more if you want to
make smaller loaves). With a rolling pin, roll out each piece into a rectangle.
Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of cinnamon sugar over the surface, spreading it
evenly (used brown sugar and some melted butter on one loaf at this stage). From the bottom of the long side, roll up the dough into tight loaves,
tucking and pinching the seams into one line on the bottom. Put the loaves,
seam side down, in greased bread pans (for full-sized loaves your pan should be
around 9 x 4 1/3 x 3 inches). Cover and allow the loaves to rise until doubled
in size.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. When the loaves have
risen, cresting over the tops of the pans, place on the center shelf and bake
for about 45 minutes. The loaves should be nicely domed and dark gold. The
bottom and sides should be a uniform light gold and there should be an audible,
hollow thwack when you tap the bottom of the loaf. If the loaves are not
ready, remove them from the pans and place them back in the oven until done.
They will bake quickly when removed from the pans.
When done, brush a little butter, margarine, or oil over the
tops, then sprinkle with the remaining cinnamon sugar, coating each loaf with a
layer of cinnamon crust. (Didn't do this part.)
Allow the breads to cool on wire racks for at least 40
minutes before slicing. This bread makes exceptional breakfast toast and French
toast!
